Squamish Rock Climbing

While thousands of tourists, outdoor recreation enthusiasts, and world travellers are just discovering Squamish, Rock Climbers have known about Squamish for decades.  It has long been recognized as one of the premier climbing destinations in North America, if not the world. 

What makes Squamish such an outstanding rock climbing destination? In a word: "Variety" There are Read more...long free ‘trad’ routes on the Stawamus Chief and other surrounding destinations, short one pitch leads and top-roping opportunities in The Smoke Bluffs, and ample challenging [for any level] sport routes scattered throughout the region.   And we have not even mentioned the constant growth in all types of bouldering problems found throughout the area, particularly at the base of "The Chief".    

 
One of the biggest draws of Squamish Climbing is the moderate temperatures in the summer months.  While climbers will wilt in Smith Rocks and be baked at Joshua Tree, July and August usually see Squamish temperatures in the low to mid 20's [70 - 80 F], making summer climbing more than pleasant, particularly with the light afternoon breeze. 

The climbing season is mainly from April through October, but climbing is possible [for the brave, and particularly for the Scottish] all year round. Rain, more so than cold, is the main problem in winter.

The Squamish Smoke Bluffs has over 300 climbing routes on clean, solid granite. Grades range from 5.4 - 5.13c with a healthy number in the 5.7 -5.10d range. Almost all are Top-Rope friendly, or they can be led on traditional gear [cracks abound!]. A full set of nuts and a small selection of cams will do for most climbs. There are a limited number of bolted routes, most of them are 5.10 and harder, but easier ones are starting to make more of an appearance.  Classic crags such as Burgers and Fries, Penny Lane, and Neat and Cool dry out quite quickly after it rains. There are enough climbs here to keep everyone happy, although the better areas are often crowded on the weekends in the summer.  The District of Squamish is progressing towards making the Smoke Bluffs a park dedicated mainly to climbing. 

The Stawamus Chief offers outstanding climbing and some of the most accessible, best and longest free climbing routes on the planet, The Chief is the reason many climbers come to Squamish. 'The Grand Wall' is one of the most famous free climbs in North America, but there are many exceptionally good multi-pitch climbs on the Chief and the lower angled Apron. Popular classics include Deidre, and Banana Peel, both 7 pitches of up to 5.7. 

People often get attacked for calling new routes "classics" however if there ever was a new route that almost immediately deserved the title, it would be "The Ultimate Everything".  Laboriously created by Chris Wild, the "UE" takes you to the top of The Chief on pitches of 5.9 and below.

Other areas of fine climbing a short drive from the town include The Malamute, The Squaw, The Papoose, and Shannon Falls.  Murrin Park is located about 10 km south of Squamish on Highway 99. There about 150 climbs there covering all grades with a large number of harder routes on the aptly named 'Petrifying Wall' - 45 meters of vertical to overhanging granite. Most of these routes are either bolted or mixed climbing. There is also some bouldering in Murrin Park

The Cheakamus Canyon is located between Squamish and Whistler on Highway 99. There are about 100 climbs in this sport climber's Mecca, almost all of the routes are bolted. Grades range from 5.8 to 5.14a [for those feeling strong].

Note: there are no access fees or climbing fees in Squamish.